Thursday, September 30, 2010

jo he arribat

And I've arrived! This will be a multi-day post:

Wednesday, September 29: I go to the Bozeman airport (again) and actually get on the plane this time, which whisks me away to Salt Lake, where I have a comfortable layover before popping on over to Paris, where I arrive Thursday morning.

Thursday, September 30: I navigate through the bowels of Charles de Gaulle to find my baggage, only to find that my bags have been checked all the way through to Madrid but I still need to march through the crowd of customs officers who seem to be stopping people at random, and they stopped me although I was baggage-less. I arrive in Spain (YES!) and go through the same random check, except this time they just asked where I was coming from, and when I said “Estados Unidos” they let me go without checking my passport or anything. I tell you, I’m not sure what the point of all those security officers is, if they’re just supposed to stand around and only look at bags of non-white people. Along those lines, while I was waiting for my next flight out of Madrid (which ended up being delayed for 3 hours) I was watching a man at a baggage scanning machine before the bags were put on our airplane. He was not even facing the machine, but instead was staring off into the sunset as bag after bag went through the machine behind him. Ah, well—guess all the terrorists were on vacation. Or they were all headed off to vacation on Mallorca, and didn’t feel like blowing anything up on the outbound leg. Perhaps I should put in a security suggestion for the return leg, just in case.

When we were landing in Palma, I turned to the woman next to me and explained that I’d never been to Palma before, and how much should a taxi cost from the airport into the city? I was thinking about Quito, where you have to barter with the taxistas, and if you don’t know what you’re doing you could end up paying $7 or $8 for a taxi ride that should only cost $4, or $3 if you live in the northern part of Quito. I wasn’t about to get ripped off here! Once I got out of the terminal with luggage in hand, however, it turned out that I needn’t have worried. There was a clearly-marked line for people who wanted taxis, and there was a man waiting at the end to direct you into a certain taxi (no clamoring taxistas! No “señorita-linda-taxi-bonita-taxi-taxi-taxi!”) and then when I asked the taxista if she had a taxi meter, she stared at me as if it were the most obvious thing in the world and said, “Of course!” and all I could think was, “TOTO, WE ARE NOT IN ECUADOR ANY MORE!!!”

I am now (11PM) cozily ensconced in a spanking clean hostel that has free Wi-Fi, or “wee-fee” as said by the gentleman at the front desk, and I’m going to get up bright and early tomorrow, find LOTS of coffee to combat jet lag, and wander around until 9, when I have an orientation for the teaching-assistantship program. S’aventura ha començat! Jo estic llista a estimar a Espanya.

Friday, October 1: This morning, I met all of the other auxiliares de conversación. I got up a little late, so I rushed through the streets of Palma (already a balmy 70ºF at 8am) and took a few wrong twists and turns, but as soon as I saw an ENORMOUS group of Americans (I have to say that it is easier to spot an American than any other nationality--we stand out like a sore thumb, I guess) I knew I had come to the right spot. After the orientation, one girl showed up late and bounded into the courtyard where we were having lunch, and bellowed, "Y'all Americans? God, all I heard was Spanish, and I didn't know if you were my people or not! Super! I just flew into Muh-LOR-kuh this morning!" (For all you curious Americans, the island is pronounced "mah-YOR-kah".)

The entire orientation was in Spanish, and the first presentation on the technicalities of the Spanish education system lasted for over an hour. I was so happy I could sing (on the inside)! We got so much great info, all presented by a guy with a wonderfully thick accent talking at top speed, that my brain cells felt bigger and smarter just from listening to him. Apparently, obligatory education ends at 16 in Spain, and after that you can either go to a "middle-grade" vo-tech school or you can get your Bachelor's degree (the equivalent of our first two years of basic classes in college), both of which last for 2 years. After that, when you're 18, you can go from either school into a "superior-grade" vo-tech school, or from the Bachelor's degree place to a university and get a Master's and/or a Doctorate. You can choose to end your schooling at any stage, depending on what sort of career you want--but unfortunately, in the Balearic Islands almost 40% of the students choose to leave school BEFORE they turn 16.

After the orientation, I wandered through old town Palma, which looks almost identical to the historical center of Quito. Quito was founded by the Spanish in the 1500s; Palma was founded originally by the Romans, then settled by the Muslims, then conquered by the Christians in the 13th Century. Both were spruced up in the last decade or so. One story from the streets of Palma before I close out: a little boy, who had to be less than 3 years old, tripped and fell on his hands. He expressed himself loudly and clearly, carefully pronouncing each syllable, "Maldito sea!" ("Damn it!")

Now that it's past 7pm there are free tapas in the café across the plaza, so bona nit! Fins demà.

my first spanish breakfast: café americano, zumo de naranja, cruasán

streets of palma

plaça maior

to prove i was actually here... mor amor, anyone?


Tuesday, September 28, 2010

and...i'm not in spain yet

Goodbye, Mom. Goodbye, Dad. Goodbye, house, Herman, and little brother. Goodbye, car--I'll miss having that all-American independence waiting for me in the driveway every day. I'm off to Spain! I'm in the car (one last ride!), I'm making a few last-minute calls to banks and credit card companies and rejoicing that I'll be 8 months away from annoying automaton menu-option voices, I'm listening to my voicemails, and yet another annoying automaton voice comes on to inform me that my flight from Atlanta to Madrid has been cancelled.

Hello, house! Hello, bagel company, home-style coffee, and movie theater! I'm here for one more day.

I've got a new flight leaving tomorrow, Bozeman-Salt Lake-Charles de Gaulle-Madrid. Ryanair, that wonderful cheapo airline, had kindly informed me days and days ago that the Spanish baggage handlers were going on strike on September 29th (the day I was due to stop over in Madrid and arrive in Palma) and the baggage handlers had very politely informed the public that this strike would be occurring, so Ryanair offered one free rebooking for the next day. No problem, right? I would just spend the day in Madrid (not an unhappy prospect) and leave for Palma the next morning. Just to be safe, I called Delta and asked if their baggage handlers, too, would be out for the day, and the lady very snootily informed me that no, Delta baggage handlers would not go on strike, and if they were, then Delta would certainly contract out with somebody else, and she didn't know what these low-fare airlines were up to, and no, she had never heard of Ryanair, and was that spelled with a y?

Reassured, I re-booked my Ryanair flight and prepared for a day of exploring Madrid. Fast-forward five days later, when Delta cancels every flight to Spain without warning (guess they didn't "contract out with somebody else") and I'm now booked on a flight leaving tomorrow, arriving in Madrid after my Ryanair flight is supposed to depart Madrid, and I can't change the Ryanair flight, because cheapo airlines are cheap because they have no customer service.

Damn.

Well, at least I'm at home, drinking good coffee, have plans to go see "Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps" with my mom, and life will go on. I'm just delaying my Spanish adventure by one more day. Soon (I hope) I'll be saying ¡qué comience la aventura! except I'm going to a part of Spain where they speak Catalan (actually mallorquí, a dialect of català) and it'll be something like què començ s'aventura!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

self-directed spirit fingers

So, I have to admit: I’m actually terrified about living in Spain. Terrified, perhaps, isn’t the right word… apprehensive? The thesaurus says “itching” — not quite what I had in mind. I lived for nine months in Ecuador, which was almost a complete disaster (well, let’s call it ¾ of a disaster) and I’d rather not re-live it. I wouldn't NOT go to Ecuador if I could re-do it I became wonderfully close to the people from Linfield that I studied abroad with, but that doesn't mean I want another nine months of unhappinesseven if it was a good learning experience.

This time, though, will be different. I’m not living in an overcrowded city of 2 million people; I’ll be working in towns of 5,000 and 800 people, and perhaps living on the beach (living arrangements have yet to be arranged). Instead of an hour-long one-way commute in an overcrowded, possibly dangerous (although always interesting) bus, I’ll be riding a bicycle less than 5K down a road that winds through orchards and cacti. Instead of being 5,000 miles away from a single familiar soul (excepting the people I was studying abroad with), I have three other friends who are going to be living in Spain, two friends in Germany, one friend in Austria, one friend in Belgium, one friend in Denmark, two friends in Italy, and family in Norway that I can visit whenever the going gets rough (assuming I find really really cheap airfare). Along with having friends that I can visit, those friends will be coming to visit me! My family is also coming to Spain, so the eight months will have lots of friendly and familial interludes.

Another factor in my favor this time around is that instead of being an exchange student in a university so fractured that the Ecuadorian students could hardly get along with each other, not to mention with the hordes of international students that invaded their Laguna Beach-esque campus every semester, I’ll be working in an elementary school and a high school, and I’ll be the one teaching, so I should have some semblance of control—or so I imagine. I’m also coming home for Christmas—I am not spending another Christmas abroad—so instead of eight straight months, I’ll be there for only three months before coming home, and the spring semester will only be five months long. I came home for Christmas when I was at college—why can’t I come home for Christmas now that I’m out of college? I believe that summer jobs are supposed to pay for winter fun (and food, and plane tickets home), so I’m going to be freely spending my hard-earned cash with one whopping check to Delta.

All of those reasons stacked together make a powerful argument for why I’m going to be much more successful at living abroad this time around.

Oh! I almost forgot! The last and best reason is that I’m not going to be living with a whacko host family that watches better sex videos for family bonding time, nor will I be living with a host family headed by a father who gives three-hour post-dinner lectures on how black people, indigenous people, people from the Coast, people from the Amazon, people from Asia, Jews, Palestinians, Middle Easterners in general and Columbians are inherently not trustworthy. The one hitch to my plans for future happiness is that I’m not exactly sure where I’ll be living yet, but at least I know it’s gotta be better than the last go-round!

I know that every new experience has its ups and downs, and just because I’ll be living on a Mediterranean island doesn’t mean that I’ll be in Paradise the entire time. However, I’m thinking positively right now, sending myself spirit fingers, and to boost my morale I’m listening to the genius of Billy Joel (ignore the last line… it rhymes nicely, but please don’t take it seriously!!)

Gotta call from an old friend, we used to be real close

Said he couldn’t go on with the American way

Closed the shop, sold the house, bought a ticket to the West Coast

Now he gives them a stand-up routine in LA…


They will tell you you can’t sleep alone in a strange place

Then they’ll tell you you can’t sleep with somebody else.

Ah, but sooner or later you’ll sleep in your own space

Either way it’s ok; you’ll wake up with yourself.


I don’t need you to worry for me ‘cause I’m all right,

I don’t want you to tell me it’s time to come home,

I don’t care what you say any more; this is my life,

Go ahead with your own life, leave me alone!